I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

     And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by.

                                                                       --Sea Fever by John Masefield

The Indian Navy has played a distinguished role in the security of our country. Every Navy Day on 4^th December we remember its valorous attack on the Karachi harbour which turned the 1971 Indo-Pak war in our favour. But it is Masefield’s words that ring in my ears whenever the Indian Navy is mentioned. I see a sailor standing at the rails, watching his loved ones move further and further away as his ship slowly sails off into the great blue unknown. This poignant yet glorious icon of ‘duty calls come hell or highwater’ is my vision of the Indian Navy.

Consequently, when I held the invitation to the INS Valsura Literature Festival in my hands a rush of pride filled my heart. The great, illustrious brethren of sailors with their own endless yarns had honoured me with this call.

Like some of the other invitees, I had fond fantasies of cruising blue seas with salty wind zipping through my hair until I stepped onto INS Valsura which was… NOT a ship!

Rather, it is a verdant island floating amidst salt pans (salt lakes) with the Arabian Sea twinkling in the distance. Dedicated to the Indian Navy’s elite Electrical Training Establishment, INS Valsura is located on Rozi Island. A narrow, elevated road runs between salty lakes to connect the naval base with Jamnagar, its closest town.

The historical antecedents of INS Valsura are interesting. In 1942, the previous Jam Saheb, ruler of the erstwhile princely state of Nawanagar donated 38 acres of land on Rozi island to the Royal Navy. The purpose was to establish HMIS Valsura, a torpedo training school on it. After Independence, the base was renamed INS Valsura in 1950. Derived from two Tamil words meaning ‘sword’ and ‘fish’, Valsura means Swordfish, which was a torpedo-carrying aircraft of the Royal Navy besides being a large saltwater fish found off the coast of Gujarat.    

Flying from Mumbai with ten other authors, we landed at the tiny Jamnagar airport and were instantly enveloped by dazzling white uniforms and smiling faces below gold-crested peak caps. Experiencing the warmth of the Indian Navy’s welcome for the first time totally bowled us over. Whisked away by a queue of sedans, members of the liaison team updated us on the schedule of our stay at the base. Slowly, the realisation sunk in. This was going to be a Litfest with a difference…an enormous difference. We were not just authors invited to infuse literary wisdom, we were guests of the Indian Navy, specifically of INS Valsura.

My vehicle halted before plush guestrooms overlooking a manicured lawn with a flagstaff. Tucking into a fine lunch, the Commanding Officer, Commodore Marwaha and his team walked us through the itinerary for the next 48 hours. Other than the literature festival with author sessions and workshops spread over an entire day at three different venues, there were tours of INS Valsura base, birdwatching photoshoots from vantage points, kayaking sprees, mango orchard treats and evening fiestas.

It was an energy-packed itinerary!

Clearly, Team Valsura was not in the mood to let us chill in the exquisite suites bestowed on each of us.

Early next morning, we left in a convoy accompanied by the CO, Ms Marwaha, officers, and ladies. We were amused to observe a motorcycle alongside with a cameraman sitting backwards on pillion. He was filming our drive to the birdwatching Submarine Point. Laughing self-consciously, we joked, ‘Are we that famous?’ And were amazed to find the officers nodding. After shooting hordes of pink flamingos, black-necked storks, and other migratory birds inhabiting the salt pans, we headed back. With reels of birdie pics on our cameras, it was a thoroughly satisfied group of birdwatchers who trooped into a sumptuous breakfast spread amidst the rolling greens of a golf course maintained by INS Valsura called NEPTA.

That evening, the CO invited us to his home at the beautiful Valsura House for the Fest curtain raiser. It was an informal gathering of Valsura officers and wives who startled me by their eager enthusiasm to discuss books. Even a dormant passion for writing sometimes surfaced in our conversations. Possibly, it was the sailor in them wishing to spin the many stories of their adventures.

Marking Azadi Ka Amrit Mahotsav, the festival began in the huge Ujjval Auditorium bursting with naval officers, sailors, families, students from renowned Jamnagar schools and eminent guests from the civil administration, Army, and Airforce. The INS Valsura Commanding Officer’s opening address stressed how literary activities serve to inculcate interest in reading, writing and thus foster critical thinking. This was followed by several discussion sessions on varied themes. Commodore Srikant Kesnur and Sandeep Unnithan discussed the maritime perspectives of the 1971 war. Commandant (Retd) Kulpreet Yadav spoke about the Battle of Rezang La. Film star Sushmita Mukherjee debated with Authors Harshali Singh and Kiran Manral about how women were shaping new narratives today while Authors Anand Neelkanthan and Mona Verma discussed books that are delving into the world of mythology. Author and PILF founder, Manjiri Prabhu eloquently proffered an opinion that loving dogs should be a way of life while Author Radhakrishnan Pillai and I discussed the relevance of Chanakya’s Laws today.

This perfect melange of debates on military history, journalism, theatre, contemporary reflections, and lifestyle brought forth a spate of astute questions and observations from the rapt audience, especially the school children. One young girl asked me, ‘You have written about invaders. Did these invaders benefit India in any way?’ It took me a while to explain to her how much our nation’s cultural diversity owes to the traditions of different communities who came to India and stayed on. 

The afternoon was given over to creative writing workshops taken by authors. Attended heavily by officers, men, ladies, and children of the INS Valsura, their precise and analytical queries took most of us by surprise.

Watching the crowds browsing stalls that displayed a wide collection of books in the Fest Book Fair made me conclude that reading was far more valued in far flung regions than in urban centres. According to statistics, the book stalls garnered a footfall of more than two thousand. The Fest culminated with a well-staged and thought-provoking street play. Film personality Sushmita Mukherjee’s comments on the acting prowess of the amateurs was high praise, indeed. To commemorate Azadi Ka Amrit Mahotsav, a Fancy Dress Show was put up by small children dressed as freedom fighters who managed to steal our hearts with their endearing words. Another Fest initiative steered by naval ladies was a pan Navy Poetry Writing Campaign for the ladies and children of the fraternity. The winning entries are slated to be published in a book.

That evening, we attended a dinner reception at the Officer’s Mess. With live music by Valsura’s naval band as the backdrop, I was treated to some erudite conversations with distinguished guests. Commodore Srikanth Kesnur was in his element revealing how the Indian Navy operates completely on ships and equipment manufactured indigenously. Sandeep’s journalistic analysis of contemporary issues was equally absorbing. I was also thrilled to receive an invitation to visit the Jam Saheb’s palace by the lady who represented the royal family that evening. However, my eyes constantly followed our affable host, Gautam Marwaha. An author of two bestselling books, the mantle of CO was featherlight on his shoulders as he mingled with the guests, bantered with the ladies, and posed for endless photo optics. It was the bonhomie of officers and ladies that wielded the real punch to this fabulous celebration. I was proud to attest the striking impression this grand naval hospitality made on my companion authors.

While cordiality was par excellence and there was much cerebral food for thought, the Litfest had some more take-a-ways. Despite my short stay, I was astonished by INS Valsura’s unobtrusive and silent beneficence to the world around it.   

The presence of INS Valsura diffuses its surroundings. It runs Guru-Kool, a creche, hobby centre and pre-primary school which caters not only to the Valsura tiny tots but to children beyond the base. There is a tuition centre, Saraswati Block to coach and aid students of families on the base. A huge solar energy station has been set up at INS Valsura that generates electricity to the base as well as to neighbouring grids. A museum with a remarkable collection of vintage equipment, artifacts, memorabilia, and photographs is established on the base.  NEPTA is a serene park maintained by the base encouraging nature walks and yoga. Amiya Bagh is a mango orchard planted and nurtured by INS Valsura. It comprises nearly a thousand trees of Kesri mangos whose fruit is sold to the Valsura residents at nominal prices. Gorging on sweet, ripe mangos meandering between neat rows of trees was a deliciously unforgettable experience. I have already mentioned Submarine Point, a high rocky promenade for bird watchers and photographers. The Valsura library provides not just thousands of books but also a quiet reading lounge called Readomaniacs Retreat. I observed how comprehensively INS Valsura has created an eco-system that focuses on nature conservation while providing learning, recreational, social, and sporting opportunities to the entire region. Though tucked away in a corner, INS Valsura seems to shoulder more CSR than many urban corporates.

As we walked around the sprawling base, I could see that it was structured more like a township. Neatly marked avenues criss-crossed the base lined by administrative offices, engineering, electronic and IT schools, modern high-rise flats and colonial bungalows with lush gardens. There were playing fields, training grounds, water training centres as well as banks, shops, beauty parlour, pub, bowling alley, post office and even a heritage temple.

In fact, the more I speak of the Valsura experience the less it is.

Just a casual scrutiny of the split-second co-ordination of sessions organised at three venues spread across a few kilometres, the adept handling of co-curricular and social activities, and the efficient management of every guest’s comforts speaks volumes of the naval regimen behind the scenes. Nothing was random. Minimal details of the Fest had been studied, dissected, and planned. All emergencies anticipated and taken care of. Can anyone ever beat the meticulous traditions of the Indian Navy emulated so well by INS Valsura’s fantastic organisation?

I cannot gush enough about Team Valsura whose care, concern and warmth has made each of us feel part of the family.

We were there for only 48 hours, but it seems a lifetime was granted to us by Commodore Marwaha, the gracious Rachna Marwaha and the constant attention of his numerous officers and men. I shall not risk stumbles by mentioning ranks here, but I am deeply humbled by the endeavours of Officers Amit, Sumit, John and their ladies. My gratitude goes out to Officer Sushmita Nath and her sweet smile, ever guiding and helping us, young Pathak ready to escort us anywhere, Sahanur from the liaison team, Murugan, Photographer Diwakar as well as the wonderful chefs who fed us such magnificent concoctions.

I can state with an absolute certainty that the INS Valsura LitFest has raised the bar for all those who attempt similar literary voyages. Being a recipient of the Valsura Crest is a privilege and it will always occupy a place of honour in my home. My sincere appreciation goes out to Team Valsura who have made it possible for me to be part of this marvellous venture of maritime history.